Reflections on Malaysia

Hey kiddos. So the dust swirling out of my wallet has finally convinced me to book a flight back over the big pond. As much as I’m enjoying my travels and as much as I’d like to stay, I’ve also gotta keep enough money to stay afloat while looking for a new job. And with the economy doing so great, it should be a piece of cake, right? Ehhh. The last 6 months of travel have been incredible, but like many good things do, my current wanderings are nearing an end, and I’ll be back in DC on May 10th.

Not to worry, I’ve still got a few more posts to bore all you unsuspecting interweb reading souls. In Malaysia now, so a few observations are below. Next heading to Singapore this weekend, and I’m sure I’ll have a few comments for you then as well. Without further ado, reflections on Malaysia-
Malaysia has helped me identify specific characteristics that made me fall in love with other countries in SE Asia. My last two weeks in Malaysia have been a bit unexciting, which is not to say that I don’t like the country – every place is worth visiting – and every place is what you make of it. But certain aspects of Malaysian life have helped me realize what I find so special about Vietnam, Lao, Cambodia, and Thailand.

Modernization and Westernization

I prefer to travel less developed countries because they’re more different from what I’m used to, and therefore more interesting. However, some developed nations, Japan and Hong Kong are two I know, are fully modern, yet uniquely different from western societies. I can dig those places, too. Malaysia’s modernization, on the other hand, seems to be closely coupled with western characteristics. Former British rule (along with prior Dutch and Portuguese influence) likely played a hand in this, but it’s a bit out of control at the present. Gigantic mega-malls, an array of American fast food joints, and $9 beer nights are not what I seek while traveling.

While Thailand is laying claim to some of these same indulgences, most heavy development is in the south while the north and north-east remain more traditional. Vietnam, Lao, and Cambodia are largely undeveloped, yet provide stunning beauty in the land, culture, and people. In addition, these countries are a little dirty and gritty, which is appealing for the adventurous. Squat toilets, ridiculous bus rides, and thick language barriers are fun challenges that provide rewarding experiences.

To be clear, I do not disapprove of western-style modernization or any way in which a country chooses to develop – I’m just not a big fan of it as a traveler because I don’t find it interesting. And on a philosophical point, I’d rather developing societies not associate McDonalds and other western crap with an improved lifestyle, because it just isn’t true. I’ve met poverty-stricken people with incredibly rich, happy, and fulfilling lives. I hate how people often say “oh, these people have nothing, I feel so bad for them.” While this perspective may be appropriate in some cases, many SE Asian villagers are self-sufficient and perfectly happy with their families and close-knit societies. Western materialism is not going to improve their life – and it’s not improving our lives, either. We just haven’t realized (or admitted) it yet.

Bad Car Traffic

Urban planning – the designed layout of a town – dictates how the town functions. Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur, and Melaka allow heavy car traffic to fill the streets. Pedestrian and bicycle traffic is not accommodated and is often exposed and unfriendly. Much like the sprawling US suburbs, this only encourages more car traffic. While cities like Bangkok and Saigon also have horrendous traffic, the streets there are littered with motorbikes, tuk tuks, bicycles, pedestrians, and people washing dishes. There’s a heterogeneous mix that makes it interesting and exciting. Malaysian traffic, on the other hand, is more akin to Northern Virginia rush hour traffic. Disheartening instead of intriguing. Which leads to my next item…

No Extreme Motorbiking

Some locals still drive motorbikes in Malaysia, but with all the cars there’s less need to haul a crate of dead pigs or an extended family of 6 on the back of a bike. Holy Christ in flight this stuff is great… Watching motorbike antics in Vietnam and Cambodia, especially, have provided countless hours of entertainment.Malaysia’s Saving Grace

I know it sounds like I don’t like Malaysia, but it’s just that I really love Vietnam, Lao, Cambodia, and Thailand. The modernism and unfavorable urban design of Malaysia has highlighted my soft spot for these other countries and pin-pointed a few reasons why I like them so much. Yet Malaysia does have one huge advantage over these other guys, and that’s multicultural diversity. Sea trade and tin mining attracted so many Chinese and Indians hundreds of years ago that they almost outnumber ethnic Malays today. This provides an excellent abundance of Chinese and Indian food as well as opportunities to interact with different people. Some of the best (and cheapest) food I’ve had in Malaysia has been Indian, and some of the most rewarding interactions have been with Indians. I may have to wait until next trip to check out India, but I’m certainly getting a taste of it right here.

Oh, sweet Jesus this got long. Way to be if you made it to the end without choking on your own drool! I know I surely had a close call.

Southern Trends and the Malaysian Melting Pot

Thailand is filthy rich. Not when compared to European nations and other Western countries, but when compared with their neighbors to the east, namely Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia, the Kingdom is thriving. Baht is practically leaking out their ears. The stark economic discrepancy between these countries is unbelievable considering their close proximity. While kids in Cambodia pick through the leftover scraps from a tourist’s dinner, Thai kids, less than fifty kilometers away, are eating their fill at KFC in a huge air conditioned shopping mall.

The wealth in Thailand also seems to grow the further south you travel. This may have something to do with the popular and over-touristed islands and beaches, but the trend also continues down into Malaysia. Motorbikes have been almost completely replaced by cars while cheap guesthouses have been replaced by not-as-cheap Chinese hotels. The increasing wealth trend continues into Kuala Lumpur before it supposedly climaxes in Singapore (I’ll be able to confirm in about a week). Hum, why am I traveling this direction?

Another interesting trend throughout Southern Thailand and Malaysia is an increase in Muslims. They own and operate many of Thailand’s beach and island resorts and I’ve encountered more and more peek-a-boo married woman (I can see your eyeballs!) and scarf-clad girls the past few weeks. Islam is the official religion in Malaysia and the higher concentration of Muslims in Southern Thailand is likely a significant motivating factor for the recent terrorist bombings in the region. (Don’t know much about it, but it seems that they’re pissed off about being governed by non-Muslim Thais and want their own state).

Equally tenuous, but without the big fiery murderous mess, Malaysia is experiencing plenty of their own racial discrimination and unrest. Talking to an Indian cabbie the other day in Ipoh, I learned that Indian and Chinese citizens in Malaysia are granted privileges and not rights. Malays, which are ethnic Malaysians, make up only 60% of the country’s population, while 3rd and 4th generation Indian and Chinese immigrants make up 40%. After immigrating to Malaysia 100+ years ago, the current Indian and Chinese population was born here, and are granted ‘citizen’ status, but have no rights. On the financial front, a house that costs 80,000 Ringgits for a Malay buyer will cost 100,000 Ringgits (~$30K US) for an Indian or Chinese buyer, regardless of the seller.

Malaysia is an economically thriving Asian melting pot with diversity abounds, but the legal inequalities are a recipe for strife. They’ve had a few scuffles in the past, but we’ll just have to see how long it takes the Chinese and Indians to get sufficiently pissed off again.

Language is kind of funny here because the Indians don’t want to learn Chinese, the Chinese don’t want to learn Hindi, and Malays don’t want to learn either one, so everyone just uses English as a common ground. Malay is the official language, but English has become ubiquitous.

In other news, monsoon season totally rules. Every day for almost exactly 2 hours, starting at almost exactly 3pm, a torrential downpour goes ape shit. Quite entertaining.

[1st image is restaurant "Golden Stream" in Ipoh, Malaysia; 2nd image is the Petronas Twin Towers in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia; 3rd image from Battambang, Cambodia - dont have any good pics of Malaysian monsoon action yet.]

Temples of Angkor, Climbing in Thailand, and Water Wars in Krabie

Yikes, it’s been a while since my last post. But to my credit, I’ve been a bit distracted lately: my cat, Meow, lost an intense battle with lymphoma and passed away just over a week ago. My sister was with her and did everything she could, but it was Meow’s time to move on and raise hell in kitty heaven. A celebration of her life can be found here. Kyle also joined me for my last week of travels in Cambodia and first week in Southern Thailand. Here’s what we’ve been up to:

The temples of Angkor were nothing short of stunning. Ankgor Wat was cool, but we were actually more impressed with Angkor Thom’s Bayon (FACES!) and the tree embattled temple of Ta Prohm. I’ll let the pictures do the talking...Climbing in Railey Beach and Ton Sai in Southern Thailand was totally sweet. 700+ bolted routes occupy over 40 limestone walls that jut up into the sky. Kyle brought a rope and quick-draws so we could lead our own climbs, and it was easy to join up with other climbers and share routes as well. We went ‘deep water solo’ climbing on our last day there – this is where you boat out to rock islands, climb up without belay gear, and then fall/jump into the water to finish the climb. It beat us up pretty good (who knew a 50 foot jump into the sea would sting?), but was plenty of fun.
Yesterday in Krabie, after Kyle left, I discovered the hard way that it was the Thai New Year. The town suddenly became besieged by a full-blown, show-no-mercy water war. Mobile attack squads manned the back of pick-up trucks with huge bins of water, launch buckets, and super soaker water guns. Stationary strongholds defended street corners and guesthouses with hoses and their own set of H2O projectiles. Quarter was shown to no one. Little old ladies were lit up in broad daylight. Protesting travelers with full packs were doused. Passing motorbike drivers were ambushed while they feebly attempted to navigate around improvised barricades. Allies turned on each other as quickly as haphazard treaties developed. In the end there were no sides: it was every man, woman, and child for themselves. And then nightfall came and everyone got drunk. Horray Thai New Year! Apparently the water war has become a tradition that welcomes the coming of the rainy season – the New Year marks the end of the dry season and the beginning of the wet season.Likely moving on to Malaysia and Singapore soon, but no hard plans yet. My bank account, however, is telling me I should return soon. (What’s that bank? Perhaps within a month you say?…) We shall see.